In the last few years the true atmosphere of historic Tbilisi - the city designed for the guest - is starting to return. Whole districts are suddenly coming alive with cafes, restaurants, carpet and craft shops jostling next to each other. The Chardin area of Tbilisi old town is one such. In the evening just head down there to see what's happening, or check out Iraklie II, Axvlediani, Shavteli streets or the city's main avenue, Rustaveli. In Tbilisi's relaxed atmosphere, cafes stay open until there are no more guests. It is not uncommon for groups of guests to take over the piano and sing until dawn.